A particularly peated Ledaig, and a perfect example of how impressive the whisky from the only Isle of Mull distillery has become. It’s a thing of beauty: a lemony, clean, sharp and precise distillate, chiselled and absolutely pure. In spite of the high level of peat smoke (very dry, maritime, full of salt and iodine), the tarry notes are strong but enlightened by the freshness of a coastal breeze, with its cool air and the spray from the sea, without ever becoming ponderous. This is very much reminiscent of a fine Islay but with the lemony character and freshness fully preserved after 10 years of maturation, without excessively sweet vanilla or fruity notes from the casks. This is peated whisky at its raw and uncompromising, yet elegant, best.